Luang Prabang - the most relaxing place on earth

Luang Prabang is without doubt the most beautiful town I've seen in Asia so far (perhaps Hoi An is pretty close). Though there are plenty of tourists, the serentity of the town is quick to take over so that everyone slows down and relaxes. I now walk at half the speed I used to, I expect to see young monks wandering down the street, I regularly stop to smile and chat to a stranger and relaxing on cushions sipping cocktails as the sun sets over the river seems like the norm.

My room in this town is directly across from a Wat. I am woken early (3.30am)by the wake up drum for the monks who reside there, but am lulled back to sleep by the monks' chanting. Another drum gets me out of bed at 6 and I open my door to see a procession of beautiful, saffron robed young monks moving down the street collecting their morning alms of sticky rice. With the dawn light, the scene is from another world and is an appealing aspect of Buddhism.

At least until some insensitive tourist with a camera gets in a poor kid's face with their camera to get the best shot possible! Most of the monks here are young (10-18) and come to Luang Prabang from their village in the hope of pursuing their education. The boys are friendly and open, many greeting me with a "Sabaidee" as we pass in the street.

The town itself is full of French colonial architecture and many many beautiful Wats. It's Heritage status means that development is limited and the historical feel is maintained. It is a town to simply wander and enjoy.

A trip down the river shows the beauty of the landscape as the gentle hills rise around the town. Natural beauty abounds, the Kuang Si falls are a pretty spot that is full of tourists, but the atmosphere is so tranquil that it doesn't feel crowded.

The night market is wonderful, lots of stalls selling very similar handicrafts. The sellers, mostly women, sit behind their wares, chatting, eating, texting, feeding their babies and when it reaches 8pm even sleeping. Many of the crafts they sell they have made themselves, including complex handwoven silk pieces, one of which I had to buy.

Visiting the villages around the town brings greater perspective to my understanding of Laos life - it is a lot less cluttered than mine and I feel somewhat ashamed of all the worldly possessions I own... then I go and buy just one more piece of silk.

In one village that was clearly used to being visited by tourists, I was greated by children singing a song called, "You buy from me for 5000". That was the only line. The kids had been nicely trained to be cute and sell their fabric bracelets (one little girl who couldn't be more than 4 got a bit confused when it came to haggling over a price as she dropped to 2000 and then up to 3). Another girl was collecting water from their well and became quite excited by my glasses - gesturing that she wanted to try them. So I let her and took a photo, not realising that she actually wanted me to give them to her. Getting them back required some miming of blindness!

The tourists here are a much broader spectrum, from all over the world and from all ages and stages. I have met all sorts of wonderful people from around the world. It certainly refreshes my perspective on the world to meet interesting people with such different experiences and world views.

For anyone who wants to relax and slow down - this is the place I trully recommend.

Laos - Vientiane, Vang Vieng and hellish bus journeys.

Okay, so I'm a little slack in posting but there's been so much to do and my lack of computer or iphone means I have to go to internet cafes and really - there's fun to be had!

I've been in Laos for four days and it has quickly become my favourite place in Asia, having tipped Vietnam off the top spot. Stepping into Laos has brought immediate relaxation. Lao people take life slowly and calmly and it seems to rub off. No more hassling to take a tuk tuk or to buy crappy souvenirs. The Lao just smile and say "Sabaidee".

Vientiane was so hot after Hanoi. Felt like 35 and even for Laos that's pretty hot for "winter". There's not much to see in Vientiane - That Luang (see picture) and a few other temples are about it. It's more about seeing the way of life in their capital city. Wide, quiet streets, temples, riverside restaurants (of the plastic chair variety), a bit of traffic but ordered and no honking!)

I caught up with a family friend Simon and got a few tips on life in Laos. Lao people are rice connoisseurs and to ask if someone has eaten is literally translated as "have you eaten rice". Rice must be fresh and they can tell the fresh rice from the old rice. Here's it's served sticky, you grab a handful, roll it in a small ball and dip it into your spicy food. Thankfully there is no taboo on eating with your left hand here!

 My hotel was beautiful - Hotel Khamsvonga if anyone is going and I met a number of great people from all around the world.

After a day in Vientiane I travelled by minibus to Vang Vieng. Vang Vieng has to be seen to be believed. Surrounded by breathtaking Karst mountains this little town has been overtaken by tourism. When the Lonely Planet said that the restaurants were identical and all played episodes of "Friends" I don't think I really believed them. But it's true. As I walked through the dusty streets on arrival, I could hear familar voices coming from all directions, occasionally broken up by episodes of The Family Guy. In front of these screens sat comatose backpackers clearly a little worse for wear. I continued walking and saw a number of inebriated westerners being helped by friends up the street, carrying tubes. Tubing is what the backpackers come for - and the bars and swings that stretch along the river. I can only imagine what the locals think about the behaviour of the westerners (mostly Brits and Aussies)! It wasn't really what I came to Laos for.

Thankfully, there were many ways of avoiding this crowd (I know I sound like a Nanna - but I guess I have become one!) I hired a bike (hah!) and road around to the real parts of the town and out along the river to the mountains. My bungalow on the river provided beautiful respite from the heat and I had a Lao massage for about $4. Despite the party atmosphere, Vang Vieng is too beautiful to miss. In the glorious setting sun it is paradise.

I left yesterday, waking to pouring rain and thick fog - good timing for me to leave! Unfortunately, that fog stayed with our "VIP" bus (not sure what was VIP about it except it was full of tourists) all the way to Luang Prabang on the most treacherous road I have ever travelled, if I could have seen beyond the road the landscape would have been amazing with high hills and plunging valleys. Perhaps it was better that I couldn't see as the bus raced around every hairpin turn. The 227km trip took 9 hrs. That included a stop for an hour or so as we waited for an accident to clear (a truck had smashed the driver's side of a minibus on a corner). There were two other accidents - a bus sticking out from a ditch at right angles to the road and an overturned Ute. I'm just glad I made it to Luang Prabang in one piece!

Luang Prabang is another story alltogether!

Hanoi

I was a bit worried that I'd come to Hanoi after 4 years and my delightful memories of the place would be destroyed. Thankfully that was not so, but it certainly has changed in that time.

Hanoi is a place of sensory overload. The first thing that overwhelms is the constant sound of honking horns, then the vision of insane traffic where motorbikes come from every direction and traffic lights seem to be just a suggestion. Then comes the crowds of locals celebrating the new year on the street. Add the fume filled air with the regular waft of incense and you have quite a place.

Wandering the winding streets and alleys of Hanoi's old quarter was still a joy, despite the constant rain and mist. It was easy to get lost amongst the laneways that lead every which way. This was also the best way to see people living their lives. On one hand you have street hawkers carrying their baskets of fruit over their shoulders, wearing traditional hats, and on the other you have free wifi in every cafe and the young hip Vietnamese are busy tapping away on their iphones and netbooks.(The problem with this is that internet cafes are now a thing of the past, so it's been hard to keep in touch - should have bought that iphone).
Fashion, music and coffee have had a makeover in the four years since I was here. No longer do I only hear Boney M and Abba sadly, now it's Rhianna, Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson. Fashion is up to date and the coffee is good and made with real milk.

I have already met a tonne of people. I spent a day with Gabrielle and Bree, a mum and daughter from Phillip Island - Gab is now teaching in Hanoi (Hi!). They were generous tour guides who took me to their favourite places and showed me their lovely home.

I joined a tour to Tam Coc, which was not the most exciting trip and included a lot of souvenir hassling - though Tam Coc itself was breathtaking. I was rowed down a river through Karst Limestone mountains and caves by a tiny Vietnamese woman. The bus ride took forever and was very bumpy. However, I met some interesting people - friendly and chatty Thai's, Spanish lovebirds, a Finnish woman volunteering by teaching in Hanoi, an intelligent Hong Kong couple with amazing English (and a slight Australian accent for that is where she studied)

It was good to visit Hanoi again - I love it for its craziness and culture, but it was just as wonderful to touch down in Laos where the air was warm and the traffic seem to never honk their horns. On my first walk through the city streets in the early evening the scent of jasmine wafted through the air and monks chatted on their mobiles while relaxing on the verandahs of temples. This is definitely more relaxed than anywhere else in Asia I've been.

Oh, and Britney's tombstone is still there... in Gravestone Street