The madness of Mumbai

Mumbai is incredible and is a completely different India to the traditional North and the smiling South.

In Mumbai, I sit drinking a cafe latte with trendy young Indians on one side of a window while tiny street children play on the other side. They hide their few precious possessions in the gap between planters on the footpath. Meanwhile, a block away, the wealthy pay a fortune to stay at the famous/infamous Taj Hotel. And a block in the other direction, thousands of university students behave like university students.

The tourist area, Colaba, is like a shabby version of St Kilda. Art Deco buildings stand defiantly beneath their worn and blackened exteriors while huge trees create boulevards and crack through the bitumen. The UNESCO protected train station shows how grand the whole city could look.

I feel less stared at here and there are women on the streets who are happy to talk to me; though the banking and court district still seems to be a man's world and I feel out of place in my pink t-shirt.

The markets give a true sense of the size of the city with seemingly endless streams of people looking for a bargain.





This place has blown my budget with expensive accommodation and shopping. My bargaining will power is waning after 4 weeks, so I've had to ban myself from buying anything that costs more than 100 rupees ($2.50). Probably should have put that in place before I bought silk fabric to make "something" with and the antique baby trumpet (which I found I can still play, impressing the hawker and other tourists).

And talent agents really do cruise Colaba looking for foreigners for Bollywood! I was finally discovered for my star potential - I was offered 500 rupees to go with a strange man to a vaguely described part of town for 12 hrs work. But I decided to hold out for the next offer. He didn't seem to mind and invited me to a big Bollywood party that night where I would be sure to mix with the beautiful people. Maybe I'll wear my new sari. It's either that or my last clean T-shirt and not so clean pants.


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Final days in Rajasthan

This trip has seen to have taken so long yet has flown by. I'm actually sad to be leaving my travel companions and I know I've made some good friends who I'll stay in touch with. It's funny how much you can connect with strangers in such a short period of time. It's like there's no need for self protective walls because we don't have to see each other again and the result is real, honest connections with people.

Our last stop in Rajasthan is Pushkar, a holy town which is set around a small lake that is said to have been created when Brahma dropped a lotus flower. Thus, it is a place for pilgrims and has one of the few temples to Brahma.

It is also a hippie heaven, thanks to the free flowing special lassies, and most of the town seems to be a bazaar that stretches on forever. The lake itself is surrounded by ghats that are used for ritual cleansing.



The most memorable part of Pushkar was the sunset camel ride through the not quite desert. It was also the annual kite flying festival, so the distant sky was filled with dots of kites flying impossibly high. The camel boys made marsala chai for us to drink as the sun set and the camels relaxed. My camel was called Jimmy.

On our final night, we travelled back to Delhi by overnight train, had a lot of fun but very little sleep in the cramped bunks. Arriving at 5.30am we ended out trip with a nap at the hotel before heading our separate ways. For me, a flight to Kerala and sunshine!


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Udaipur: the most romantic city in India

Udaipur is a sity that is vastly different from the other Rajasthani towns I have visited. It is considered the most romantic place in the country (a country that is big on romance!)

The old city is a maze of winding streets, up and down steep hills and is reminiscent of a European town. It is also set on a lake; the beautiful buildings line the water and it feels like I could be in Venice.

The palace is even more magnificent than the last and the people are more relaxed and friendly. There is a remarkable energy in this city; as if it exudes peacefulness. But that could just be all the sunshine - it's like a perfect Melbourne Autumn day.

Though it is much more tourist orientated than many other places we've been, it is still a charming place.

It is also the home of our awesome guide, Gajendra (G), who introduced us to his many family members. We spent a lot of time in their art studio admiring their beautiful miniature paintings and drinking chai marsala (and later, Indian rum and coke). I had beautiful henna painting on my hand by Sanju, one of the artists, which puts the previous attempt in the shade.

Add in cultural dance, music, shopping, palmists, more great food on rooftop restaurants, a sunset cruise, massage, walks in sunshine and beautiful views - it makes for two blissful day and I wish it could be longer. So far this would be my preferred place to live in India (except that I would have to be a man to enjoy it).

A change of pace

Leaving Bundi we travelled by jeep and then by open jeep through the countryside, visiting an old temple to Shiva (8th century) and waving to many children as we passed by.

The rural community of Bijaipur brought a change in landscape, the fields greener, the cows fatter, new dams and irrigation system. Both men and women work the fields and lots of children were at school. It is idyllic countryside that promotes simplicity and happiness. The reality is most likely different - it also looks like hard work.


Here, we are camping on the banks of a beautiful lake edged by marigolds and filled with birdlife. When I say camping, I really mean glamping. The tents are fixed, with ensuites and real furniture, in fact this is the first real spring mattress I've slept on in India.


An afternoon of reading and relaxing walks is the order of the day, followed by drinks, another delicious dinner and a fire under the stars. Our host Monte with his charming smile, beret and manicured mustache will keep us entertained with the latest Hindi dance tunes from his iPod - and a touch of Bryan Adams.

I feel like I'm on holiday!


For our 2nd day in Bijaipur we visited local villages and farm land, seeing opium crops amongst the vegetables. Our accommodation for the night is in the castle, my room was part of the King's quarters with painted ceiling, draping red curtains and carved furniture. It's on the top floor overlooking the village and fields below. The sitting area is exquisite and was the perfect place to watch the sunset while sipping chai masala.






Today I'm getting a massage, sitting by the pool, having my hands henna painted and strolling through the village. Indulgent!



My tattoo:


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Beautiful Bundi

This place just keeps getting more romantic! Today I strolled the winding lanes and rambling palace in Bundi, southern Rajasthan. It's the home of the oldest kingdom in the state, including temple wells and buildings that date back to the 12th century. The Palace and fort watch over the town below reminding it of it's majestic past.


We are staying with a local family in their huge haveli (heritage house decorated with murals) who are descendants of the maharajahs. The owner, his wife, daughter, grandsons and nephews all greeted us and work for the hotel. A nephew, Yogi, was our guide around his ancestral home and the vibrance of the town was immediately clear. Fresh vegetables lined the market place as random animals - goats, sheep and of course cows - wandered. The stall holders carried big sticks to keep the animals away from their precious stock.

Being a white woman in India can certainly build the ego, as men say hello at every turn, followed by "very nice" or "beauty", but when followed by a giggle it does not seem lecherous. Indian people readily stare at things without averting their gaze, but are quick to smile when you do. Everyone is keen to have their photo taken, from young boys to older men and women who pose nonchalantly for the camera. They were also keen to share a taste of their products, whether sweet snacks or powder to dot my forehead in blessing.

The crumbling palace clings to the hill, in seemingly endless levels of apartments. Much of it has gone to waste and the monkeys certainly have free reign, but it is still possible to imagine living there.

The area is famous for its murals, some are quite provocative. Here are the ones that decorate my room:



- racy for the bedroom.



- water theme for the bathroom. Bundi is also famous for elephant fighting.

Our visit to Bundi has turned us into celebrities. My picture is on the front page of the paper, advertising the upcoming kite festival. Apparently that's the reason for our visit. Check it out:

Tigers and monkeys and deer, O my!

A safari through Rambathorne National Park was a search for the 35 tigers that apparently live there. Plenty of birds, Bambi deer and monkeys. We searched and searched as the sun set, but alas, no tigers.

However, we did get to stay in a "Palace Resort", the fact that every hotel was called a resort did dampen the experience! But the welcome flowers were lovely. I had my first Limca - Indian lemon soft drink - not as good as I remembered, but perhaps the fact that it is just sugar was what I liked.



While it's sunny and warm during the day, the north of India is still in an unusually cold, cold snap and thick fog hangs in the air until at least 11. They've even given the school kids another week of holidays.



But when the sun rises, Rajasthan is glorious! This morning we travelled through the country side and the fog lifted revealing endless fields of green and yellow: wheat and mustard crops. Cows and goats grazed along the roadside, unfazed by the big trucks zooming by. Women and children tended to the fields and herds while the men appeared to sit around drinking masala chai, chatting and "thinking" as our guide described their role in society! Cricket games and kite flying seemed to be the Sunday sport. This is a beautiful part of the world. The people are friendly, poor but many genuinely seem content with the life they know.



Have arrived in Bundi and am staying in a classic Rajasthani home with a beautiful courtyard. Off to explore the town soon.

The land of the maharajahs

In just a few days I have seen so much life! Arriving in Jaipur after that freezing train journey, the sun smiled down on us. After days of fog and cold, Jaipur welcomed us to Rajasthan with warmth and a thousand smiles.

There is an instant difference in people's attitudes after Delhi, genuine friendliness is mixed with the need to sell to the tourists.

Jaipur is the pink city with beautiful palaces, such as the Palace of the Winds, and 400 year old shop fronts. The women wear the entire rainbow of colours and saris, shoes and bangles for sale line the streets. From the roof tops you can see hundreds of homemade kites flying as children practise for the annual kite festival on Jan 14.

Unfortunately, I was struck down with a fever and cold for a day in bed, but the old palace we stayed in had the sun streaming in, so it was a good place to get sick. At least it wasn't gastro!


It didn't stop me from enjoying my first Bollywood cinema experience in the Raj Mandra Cinema. No sub titles, but the story was typically predictable and cliched; a teen comedy really. The crowd heckled and cheered throughout as different things happened. The story line had half a doze false endings where another twist was added and the film took a new direction. The dancing was phenomenal. A mix of traditional Bollywood and elements of every imaginable style - tap, hip hop, jazz, ballet and ballroom. I sat captivated for the entire 3 hrs. The fact that they bollywoodized "the Taming of the Shrew" also helped. I'm going to see another one in Mumbai I loved it so much.

Today we began by visiting another amazing fort. The Amber Fort. It was here that my family and I road elephants up the steep hill with ominous power lines overhead. The powerlines have gone, but the elephants have not, however, this time I walked up. It seemed a lot less steep this time, and much busier.

I have yet to get palace fatigue and this was as amazing as the last, especially the spectacular views.


Most exciting was that they were filming a movie in the main courtyard with traditional dancers, a mustachioed Maharajah and Elephants. They didn't care that we walked right through the set, I chatted to the camera man and went right up to the star, no questions asked. Look out for "freedom Fighters" coming to a Hindi cinema near you.



I am now sleeping in a 400 year old fort above a small local village. Leaving the cities there is an instant change. Rural life is full of colour and activity green and gold fields, pink and red Saris, camels, goats, horses and cattle. People are generally excited to see white people and just want to receive a wave and smile, nothing else.

The Fort is owned by the same family who have ruled the land for hundreds of years. They have recently turned it into a hotel to help the village, and it is completely charming with traditional alfresco paintings on the arch ways and lots of open areas with comfortable, antique furniture. The view across the country side is spectacular.

Walking through the village, every child and most adults wanted a photo of them, just to see themselves on our cameras. I couldn't say no because they didn't want anything on return; just looking at their picture was enough. Pretty much the same as any Aussie kid with a camera. As usual, I attracted all the kids who wanted to try their limited English. One older boy with quite good English tried to teach me about English grammar - present participles I think! I know my students would have no idea.

Dinner at the Fort was accompanied by traditional dress ups, live local music and dancing by some of our group members (stunning yoga instructor Penny had bewitched the country and is really destined to be a Bollywood star) and one of the waiters busted some impressive moves.

The weather is clear now, stars are bright, the temperature dips close to 0 overnight but it seems to be in the low 20s during the day now, perfect travel weather.

To see so much I'm a few days is awe inspiring and I have barely scratched the surface of my experiences. To those of you who said "why would you want to go to India?" be assured it is a beautiful, life affirming place which is diverse, confronting and inspiring. And the food is amazing!

Tomorrow- tiger spotting!




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Taj-tastic

I'm sitting on an Indian train at 5.50am. It's below 10 degrees and there is no heating. The smell of spices has masked the smell of the toilet, but we've been sitting here for over an hour after getting up before 4. No sign of when the train is leaving. Whenever an announcement is made, there is a Mario Bros "da-dah" sound. The locals are wrapped in blankets and pashminas and I'm envious. But then, I didn't have to sleep at the station.





There are currently protests across Rajasthan that are stopping road and rail traffic getting through. A low caste people group are demanding land rights and want a reservation to farm their sheep. It's not going to happen.

So rather than catching a train yesterday, I sat up the front of an Indian bus, learning about Indian driving etiquette. There were a few hairy moments where pedestrians and bicycles were nearly taken down. Lanes are just a suggestion because there is too much traffic and not enough road. The traffic includes people, overloaded auto rickshaws, horse carts, camel carts as well as trucks, cars and buses. The bus expertly weaves around them with a constant honking of the horn to announce it's presence.

However, we arrived alive in Agra - the home of Moghul opulence and the "tear drop on the face of eternity": the Taj Mahal. A memorial to a beloved wife, it was awe inspiring, despite the 10,000 other people there.





I remember being there as a 9 year old, tracing my fingers over the delicate floral patterns of the tombs made by semi precious stones, imagining the riches of these people. Now, we can't touch the tombs, nor can we take photos inside the mausoleum. The tourists line up and circle the tombs, with a little push and shove. Still, it didn't undermine the experience of seeing such clever and beautiful design.

Likewise, the red fort brought back memories of my childhood experience. Built by the Moghul emperors over a period of 95 years, it wasn't a fort to mess with. A moat of crocodiles, then a pit of tigers, then a wall of cannons surround the palaces inside. It was designed to indulge every desire of the Emperor and consists of hundreds of rooms that were once covered in jewels and gold and filled with fan waving concubines. In the women's quarters I remembered running around imagining I was the Empress. I did the same imagining again. It is a very romantic place full of stories of riches, love and betrayal.

The train has started moving but very slowly. I hope it will warm up from the body heat, but I fear the open doors between carriages will create a wind tunnel. The locals have literally covered themselves with blankets, including their faces. But, again, I didn't sleep on the street so I shouldn't complain.






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First Impressions and flashbacks

20 odd years ago I visited Delhi as child and I was curious to see what I recalled.

The swanky new airport, complete with recycling bins was an impressive start, but was quickly overshadowed by the harrowing car trip and piles of rubble that line the roads. There's situational irony for you.

It was walking to Connaught Place, the centre of Delhi that brought flashes of recognition: white columns; the underground bazaar; Wimpy's burgers and Thums Up cola.



The dirt, loose cables sticking out of the ground and the lack of women I did not remember. Men everywhere and all want to chat to us and take us shopping...



Walking through the rambling, narrow lanes of Old Delhi was a completely different experience. The sheer number of people dwelling in confined spaces - working, moving, worshipping - was another world. Tailors, beauticians and mechanics worked from tiny door ways down hidden walkways in crumbling buildings.


In visiting a Sikh temple we were fervently preached to about why Sikhism is the superior religion, but the temple ceremony with constant music and holy food was fascinating.

This is am intriguing place, unlike any other capital city I've been to. It requires patience and a sense of humour, as well as the ability to feign interest in cricket. Ricky Ponting is a hero here. Luckily, he's the only cricket player I know the name of!



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Plane travel

I visited Malaysia for 15 minutes today. Though I booked a flight with a transfer in KL from Singapore, there was no transfer. I had to go get a fast forward through immigration (the queues were horrendous) then go back in through passport control. At least a km of walking. It's what I get for traveling cheap.

Incredibly bored, I'm on the most cramped plane I've experienced - air asia is designed for small people of Chinese heritage, not Indians and Westerners. Be warned.

Luckily, I made a run to the only spare seats in the plane, and am no longer next to a sweating oversized man and have a spare seat beside me. Add to that a good view of the Korean man's laptop in the row in front, currently showing a movie set in an Arab country with Jake Gylenhaal (sp?) in a partial state of dress for the entire film, and the trip has become better. I've tried making up the dialogue in my head but it's entirely predictable:
Jake: is this sword magic?
Mysterious Minx: yes, but it's mine.
Jake: let me show you my rippling muscles as I playfully wrestle it from you.
Minx: Ok, but I am a modern empowered woman and will use my strength, intelligence AND feminine wiles to take it from you.
Jake: Ha ha ha, but look at my muscles [gives flirtatious and smoldering look].
Minx: Alright, we'll be allies against a common enemy.
[Jake and Minx wander through the desert, engaging in witty verbal exchange from time to time and glancing meaningfully at each other as Arabian soundtrack swells. The sun sets]

Next day at city gates.
Jake: Oh, we made it. I am do pleased. Aren't you?
[turns to see Minx lying on ground as if dead. Runs to her. She jumps, hits him on the head, steals the magic sword and disappears with a victorious grin]

... etc. More sword fighting, glamorous ancient cities and romantic interludes that are quickly interrupted. Have now lost interest in the story line and am just appreciating Jake.

Very, very bored. But thanks to this app, I can blog about exactly what I'm thinking as I go.

Thankfully, no one will really read this far, or even at all, so it doesn't matter that this entry is a complete load of rubbish.

Here's the view from the window as the sun sets on the earth:










By the time this is posted I will have arrived in India. By the time anyone reads this, I could be 62.

Cheers for reading this far. You're a good friend.

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