The swanky new airport, complete with recycling bins was an impressive start, but was quickly overshadowed by the harrowing car trip and piles of rubble that line the roads. There's situational irony for you.
It was walking to Connaught Place, the centre of Delhi that brought flashes of recognition: white columns; the underground bazaar; Wimpy's burgers and Thums Up cola.

The dirt, loose cables sticking out of the ground and the lack of women I did not remember. Men everywhere and all want to chat to us and take us shopping...

Walking through the rambling, narrow lanes of Old Delhi was a completely different experience. The sheer number of people dwelling in confined spaces - working, moving, worshipping - was another world. Tailors, beauticians and mechanics worked from tiny door ways down hidden walkways in crumbling buildings.

In visiting a Sikh temple we were fervently preached to about why Sikhism is the superior religion, but the temple ceremony with constant music and holy food was fascinating.
This is am intriguing place, unlike any other capital city I've been to. It requires patience and a sense of humour, as well as the ability to feign interest in cricket. Ricky Ponting is a hero here. Luckily, he's the only cricket player I know the name of!

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