Different Balis

Ubud is a place that grows on you. The main roads of endless shops selling the same things suggest that it has been ruined by tourism. But exploring the streets and lanes just a little further out shows the Ubud where people live and work. Artists are everywhere trying to make a living. I meet a silversmith and his family selling jewelry for next to nothing and he clearly loves what he does.

I've seen at least 50 Elizabeth Gilbert's circa Eat, Pray, Love; both male and female. Between 50 and 65, they are hemp wearing, tanned, lean, yoga enthusiasts mostly from the US, UK and Australia. Cashed up hippies who have sought a change of lifestyle. In a trendy organic cafe they sit close to their friends and talk meaningfully about feelings and experiences with soulful eye contact while drinking green juice or soy lattes. I'm sure their tattoos have deep symbolic meaning.

And then I arrive in Seminyak - the fancier and quieter version of Kuta. I honestly don't know why people come to another country to stay in a resort and go to the (very polluted) beach. I guess it's cheaper than home. I've met people here who have no intention of leaving this Aussie tourist enclave that is nothing like the Bali I've seen. Here tourists wear board shorts and Bintang tanks. The hotel room is plush and breakfast buffet great, but the coffee is not the delicious, thick Bali coffee I've had everywhere else, it's weak filter swill. Some great shops (many too exclusive for me) and massages, but I'm bored.

However, watching a thunderstorm coming in across the beach was amazing. And walking through knee deep floodwater made me feel like a little adventurous and was a good reminder that I'm still in Asia. I won't be coming back to this beach scene for a long time. Ubud - definitely; maybe even before I'm a wealthy 50 year-old seeking enlightenment.