The madness of Mumbai

Mumbai is incredible and is a completely different India to the traditional North and the smiling South.

In Mumbai, I sit drinking a cafe latte with trendy young Indians on one side of a window while tiny street children play on the other side. They hide their few precious possessions in the gap between planters on the footpath. Meanwhile, a block away, the wealthy pay a fortune to stay at the famous/infamous Taj Hotel. And a block in the other direction, thousands of university students behave like university students.

The tourist area, Colaba, is like a shabby version of St Kilda. Art Deco buildings stand defiantly beneath their worn and blackened exteriors while huge trees create boulevards and crack through the bitumen. The UNESCO protected train station shows how grand the whole city could look.

I feel less stared at here and there are women on the streets who are happy to talk to me; though the banking and court district still seems to be a man's world and I feel out of place in my pink t-shirt.

The markets give a true sense of the size of the city with seemingly endless streams of people looking for a bargain.





This place has blown my budget with expensive accommodation and shopping. My bargaining will power is waning after 4 weeks, so I've had to ban myself from buying anything that costs more than 100 rupees ($2.50). Probably should have put that in place before I bought silk fabric to make "something" with and the antique baby trumpet (which I found I can still play, impressing the hawker and other tourists).

And talent agents really do cruise Colaba looking for foreigners for Bollywood! I was finally discovered for my star potential - I was offered 500 rupees to go with a strange man to a vaguely described part of town for 12 hrs work. But I decided to hold out for the next offer. He didn't seem to mind and invited me to a big Bollywood party that night where I would be sure to mix with the beautiful people. Maybe I'll wear my new sari. It's either that or my last clean T-shirt and not so clean pants.


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Final days in Rajasthan

This trip has seen to have taken so long yet has flown by. I'm actually sad to be leaving my travel companions and I know I've made some good friends who I'll stay in touch with. It's funny how much you can connect with strangers in such a short period of time. It's like there's no need for self protective walls because we don't have to see each other again and the result is real, honest connections with people.

Our last stop in Rajasthan is Pushkar, a holy town which is set around a small lake that is said to have been created when Brahma dropped a lotus flower. Thus, it is a place for pilgrims and has one of the few temples to Brahma.

It is also a hippie heaven, thanks to the free flowing special lassies, and most of the town seems to be a bazaar that stretches on forever. The lake itself is surrounded by ghats that are used for ritual cleansing.



The most memorable part of Pushkar was the sunset camel ride through the not quite desert. It was also the annual kite flying festival, so the distant sky was filled with dots of kites flying impossibly high. The camel boys made marsala chai for us to drink as the sun set and the camels relaxed. My camel was called Jimmy.

On our final night, we travelled back to Delhi by overnight train, had a lot of fun but very little sleep in the cramped bunks. Arriving at 5.30am we ended out trip with a nap at the hotel before heading our separate ways. For me, a flight to Kerala and sunshine!


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Udaipur: the most romantic city in India

Udaipur is a sity that is vastly different from the other Rajasthani towns I have visited. It is considered the most romantic place in the country (a country that is big on romance!)

The old city is a maze of winding streets, up and down steep hills and is reminiscent of a European town. It is also set on a lake; the beautiful buildings line the water and it feels like I could be in Venice.

The palace is even more magnificent than the last and the people are more relaxed and friendly. There is a remarkable energy in this city; as if it exudes peacefulness. But that could just be all the sunshine - it's like a perfect Melbourne Autumn day.

Though it is much more tourist orientated than many other places we've been, it is still a charming place.

It is also the home of our awesome guide, Gajendra (G), who introduced us to his many family members. We spent a lot of time in their art studio admiring their beautiful miniature paintings and drinking chai marsala (and later, Indian rum and coke). I had beautiful henna painting on my hand by Sanju, one of the artists, which puts the previous attempt in the shade.

Add in cultural dance, music, shopping, palmists, more great food on rooftop restaurants, a sunset cruise, massage, walks in sunshine and beautiful views - it makes for two blissful day and I wish it could be longer. So far this would be my preferred place to live in India (except that I would have to be a man to enjoy it).

A change of pace

Leaving Bundi we travelled by jeep and then by open jeep through the countryside, visiting an old temple to Shiva (8th century) and waving to many children as we passed by.

The rural community of Bijaipur brought a change in landscape, the fields greener, the cows fatter, new dams and irrigation system. Both men and women work the fields and lots of children were at school. It is idyllic countryside that promotes simplicity and happiness. The reality is most likely different - it also looks like hard work.


Here, we are camping on the banks of a beautiful lake edged by marigolds and filled with birdlife. When I say camping, I really mean glamping. The tents are fixed, with ensuites and real furniture, in fact this is the first real spring mattress I've slept on in India.


An afternoon of reading and relaxing walks is the order of the day, followed by drinks, another delicious dinner and a fire under the stars. Our host Monte with his charming smile, beret and manicured mustache will keep us entertained with the latest Hindi dance tunes from his iPod - and a touch of Bryan Adams.

I feel like I'm on holiday!


For our 2nd day in Bijaipur we visited local villages and farm land, seeing opium crops amongst the vegetables. Our accommodation for the night is in the castle, my room was part of the King's quarters with painted ceiling, draping red curtains and carved furniture. It's on the top floor overlooking the village and fields below. The sitting area is exquisite and was the perfect place to watch the sunset while sipping chai masala.






Today I'm getting a massage, sitting by the pool, having my hands henna painted and strolling through the village. Indulgent!



My tattoo:


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Beautiful Bundi

This place just keeps getting more romantic! Today I strolled the winding lanes and rambling palace in Bundi, southern Rajasthan. It's the home of the oldest kingdom in the state, including temple wells and buildings that date back to the 12th century. The Palace and fort watch over the town below reminding it of it's majestic past.


We are staying with a local family in their huge haveli (heritage house decorated with murals) who are descendants of the maharajahs. The owner, his wife, daughter, grandsons and nephews all greeted us and work for the hotel. A nephew, Yogi, was our guide around his ancestral home and the vibrance of the town was immediately clear. Fresh vegetables lined the market place as random animals - goats, sheep and of course cows - wandered. The stall holders carried big sticks to keep the animals away from their precious stock.

Being a white woman in India can certainly build the ego, as men say hello at every turn, followed by "very nice" or "beauty", but when followed by a giggle it does not seem lecherous. Indian people readily stare at things without averting their gaze, but are quick to smile when you do. Everyone is keen to have their photo taken, from young boys to older men and women who pose nonchalantly for the camera. They were also keen to share a taste of their products, whether sweet snacks or powder to dot my forehead in blessing.

The crumbling palace clings to the hill, in seemingly endless levels of apartments. Much of it has gone to waste and the monkeys certainly have free reign, but it is still possible to imagine living there.

The area is famous for its murals, some are quite provocative. Here are the ones that decorate my room:



- racy for the bedroom.



- water theme for the bathroom. Bundi is also famous for elephant fighting.

Our visit to Bundi has turned us into celebrities. My picture is on the front page of the paper, advertising the upcoming kite festival. Apparently that's the reason for our visit. Check it out: