Laos - Vientiane, Vang Vieng and hellish bus journeys.

Okay, so I'm a little slack in posting but there's been so much to do and my lack of computer or iphone means I have to go to internet cafes and really - there's fun to be had!

I've been in Laos for four days and it has quickly become my favourite place in Asia, having tipped Vietnam off the top spot. Stepping into Laos has brought immediate relaxation. Lao people take life slowly and calmly and it seems to rub off. No more hassling to take a tuk tuk or to buy crappy souvenirs. The Lao just smile and say "Sabaidee".

Vientiane was so hot after Hanoi. Felt like 35 and even for Laos that's pretty hot for "winter". There's not much to see in Vientiane - That Luang (see picture) and a few other temples are about it. It's more about seeing the way of life in their capital city. Wide, quiet streets, temples, riverside restaurants (of the plastic chair variety), a bit of traffic but ordered and no honking!)

I caught up with a family friend Simon and got a few tips on life in Laos. Lao people are rice connoisseurs and to ask if someone has eaten is literally translated as "have you eaten rice". Rice must be fresh and they can tell the fresh rice from the old rice. Here's it's served sticky, you grab a handful, roll it in a small ball and dip it into your spicy food. Thankfully there is no taboo on eating with your left hand here!

 My hotel was beautiful - Hotel Khamsvonga if anyone is going and I met a number of great people from all around the world.

After a day in Vientiane I travelled by minibus to Vang Vieng. Vang Vieng has to be seen to be believed. Surrounded by breathtaking Karst mountains this little town has been overtaken by tourism. When the Lonely Planet said that the restaurants were identical and all played episodes of "Friends" I don't think I really believed them. But it's true. As I walked through the dusty streets on arrival, I could hear familar voices coming from all directions, occasionally broken up by episodes of The Family Guy. In front of these screens sat comatose backpackers clearly a little worse for wear. I continued walking and saw a number of inebriated westerners being helped by friends up the street, carrying tubes. Tubing is what the backpackers come for - and the bars and swings that stretch along the river. I can only imagine what the locals think about the behaviour of the westerners (mostly Brits and Aussies)! It wasn't really what I came to Laos for.

Thankfully, there were many ways of avoiding this crowd (I know I sound like a Nanna - but I guess I have become one!) I hired a bike (hah!) and road around to the real parts of the town and out along the river to the mountains. My bungalow on the river provided beautiful respite from the heat and I had a Lao massage for about $4. Despite the party atmosphere, Vang Vieng is too beautiful to miss. In the glorious setting sun it is paradise.

I left yesterday, waking to pouring rain and thick fog - good timing for me to leave! Unfortunately, that fog stayed with our "VIP" bus (not sure what was VIP about it except it was full of tourists) all the way to Luang Prabang on the most treacherous road I have ever travelled, if I could have seen beyond the road the landscape would have been amazing with high hills and plunging valleys. Perhaps it was better that I couldn't see as the bus raced around every hairpin turn. The 227km trip took 9 hrs. That included a stop for an hour or so as we waited for an accident to clear (a truck had smashed the driver's side of a minibus on a corner). There were two other accidents - a bus sticking out from a ditch at right angles to the road and an overturned Ute. I'm just glad I made it to Luang Prabang in one piece!

Luang Prabang is another story alltogether!